Of all the cities in the world, Athens has perhaps the richest and most colourful history, attracting legions of Philhellenes through the ages. Since its foundation thousands of years ago, Athens has undergone countless revolutions and reincarnations. Most recently, the Athens 2004 Olympic Games brought far-reaching improvements to the city's infrastructure, from improved transport links to a revamp of the coastal Riviera. The new pedestrian zone surrounding the Parthenon has transformed the centre into an archaeological park that allows the glorious achievements of the ancient Athenians to sing.
"When I sometimes feel overwhelmed by the problems of the modern city, I go to the Acropolis," Constantinos Doxiadis wrote in 1964. Doxiadis kept the Acropolis in his sights by building both his offices and his home on a quiet street in the foothills of Mount Lycabettus with dazzling views of the Parthenon. A serene oasis in the densely populated centre, the site is surrounded by greenery - a rare luxury in any capital, but especially in Athens. The positioning of the building was deliberately designed to maximise the open-ended views, so you can see the whole of Athens at a glance. From the roof garden, the seaside and Saronic islands glimmer on the horizon - all within easy reach.
Closer still are the designer boutiques and cosmopolitan restaurants of Kolonaki, just a short walk downhill. After several decades during which those who could escaped to the suburbs, downtown Athens is enjoying a Renaissance. The Athens Festival of the arts has put the capital on the cultural map, along with contemporary art galleries and world-class museums such as the new Acropolis Museum. Vibrant, seductive, spontaneous Athens may have an ancient monument as its centrepiece, but it is a very modern metropolis.